Vinify.UK specialise in Portuguese wine – specifically organic and sustainably produced Portuguese wine. Owner, and Environmental Lawyer, Claudia Martans talks about her love of wine, sustainability and pivoting a business during Covid.
Your route from Panama to Portuguese wine
Andrew Stark: Hi Claudia – tell me about Vinify.UK your passions and motivations.
Claudia Martans: Hi Andrew, my husband and I started our business whilst living in Jersey, in the Channel Islands, where we spent around 15 years. During our time there, we were introduced to Portuguese wine by some friends – and we absolutely fell in love with it. There is a fairly large Portuguese community in Jersey (note; Claudia is originally from Panama!) and there are also restaurants that serve Portuguese food and wine. This created a significant market of people familiar with the wine, so we thought ‘Why not start a business around this?’
AS: Your main role is supplying to trade then?
CM: It was, but that changed! We moved from Jersey to England and the businesses changed too.
AS: Let’s start with the relocation – what was it that moved you away?
CM: My husband’s job in finance brought us to England, and I took over the running of Vinify.UK. It was a great way to stay engaged, build new social connections and keep me busy while we settled in, which it indeed did. This was in 2019 and everything was going well – until Covid-19 hit.
AS: And had you still been focussing on the trade/hospitality sector up to this time?
CM: Yes, so we had to change our business model. Our focus shifted to individual consumers since restaurants simply weren’t open at this time, but people could still order deliveries to their homes.
AS: Did this approach change once the Covid restrictions were relaxed?
CM: No, it didn’t. When restaurants began to reopen, it was done very cautiously. Some restaurants were not sure if they would remain open from one week to the next, and as a result, were hesitant to make any commitments. In the area where we were living, we also noticed that restaurants weren’t ordering from smaller businesses but from large companies who supplied them with a wide range of products in one delivery – such as spirits as well as wine. Because of that, we decided to focus on retail instead.
AS: That’s a very interesting backstory. Where does that leave Vinify.UK today?
CM: We import boutique wines from Portugal and collaborate with a small importers as well. Our goal is to source sustainably produced or organic wines (or as close to organic as possible) – and we like to work with small vineyards that share our passion and commitment to sustainability.
AS: Does any of your wine come from any big producers?
CM: We do work with two major wine producers because they were able to supply low and zero-alcohol wines, which I was eager to try due to market demand.
AS: Is this something you are coming across more and more?
CM: Yes, I also was reading an article on your website [link] about people who drink less or lower-alcohol wines. I do a lot of networking and listen to what others are discussing about their alcohol preferences.
AS: Is the networking a key part of your route to market?
CM: We run an online shop www.vinify.uk, and networking plays a key role in supporting it, as it allows me to educate people about our wines. We have also had great success in the corporate world, particularly with our personalised wine gift boxes for clients and staff during Christmas, for example.
Organic, Vegan, Sustainability…
AS: You previously said ‘as close to organic as possible’. Can you elaborate?
CM: Obtaining full organic certification can be quite expensive for small producers. As a result, while many adhere to sustainable and organic practices, they often do not have a formal organic certification. We have excellent relationships with the vineyards and know how they work. Because their values align with ours – and they produce exceptional wine, we choose to include them in our wine list.
AS: Being an Environmental Lawyer yourself must mean high standards and values?
CM: Of course! I completed my Master’s degree many years ago at the University of Nottingham, specialising in environmental law. When I returned to Panama, there weren’t many other lawyers working in this field, which meant I was able to get plenty of work. Unfortunately, when we moved to Jersey, there were fewer opportunities to work in environmental law but here in London, it keeps me very busy. Regardless of what I do, my focus on the environment and sustainability remains a core part of my life.
AS: For the consumer, there’s lots to take in and some of it is quite a broad definition; vegan, organic, biodynamic, sustainable…. Is it clear or confusing?
CM: Good question – I get this a lot, and it is quite broad and not very clear for the consumer. Most people tend to know more about what Organic means, but even Vegan isn’t clear to them. I often find that people are surprised to learn that not all wines are vegan, and in fact egg whites, gelatin, and casein (for example) can be used during the clarification process.
AS: I suppose there’s a natural assumption that because grapes grow from the ground, then they are vegan?
CM: Exactly – some people think there’s nothing else in the product!
AS: Are you experiencing a broader range of people asking for vegan wines?
CM: Not really; it’s more people who are already vegan that are looking for the certification because it’s an ethical decision for them. However, there is still an expectation for transparency. I have regular customers who are vegan, so I specifically recommend looking for the vegan certification on wine. Many people are simply unaware of the certification, and as I said before, I believe that people are more familiar with Organic labels – pesticides/no-pesticides used in the vineyards.
AS: What about other labels, such as Sustainable or Biodynamic?
CM: Again, not as much as Organic. I think there’s a lot of greenwashing which means there’s more confusion and less trust. This issue isn’t limited to the wine industry; it’s a widespread problem across all sectors. Many companies use the words ‘sustainably produced’ or ‘eco-friendly’ as a marketing tool to sell more products. Therefore, having certifications from accredited organisations is essential to help consumers avoid being misled.
AS: What do you think will change this scenario?
CM: There needs to be more education about products and their origins in general. Not just in terms of organic or vegan, but also in the fact that there’s a big world of wine out there. People often stick to what they are familiar with; for example, they may prefer a Pinot Grigio because that’s what they know. However, they won’t find that term with Portuguese wine. (note; look for Arinto instead!).
There needs to be more education about products and their origins in general. Not just in terms of organic or vegan, but also in the fact that there’s a big world of wine out there.
Claudia Martans, Vinify.UK
When I go out to a restaurant and notice that there are no Portuguese wines on the wine list, I can’t help but wonder if this is due to a lack of understanding or appreciation of what these wines have to offer? I often find myself educating people about Portuguese wine and grapes, many of which are native to Portugal making them distinctive, exciting, and special.
AS: How many native grapes are we talking about?
CM: Portugal has around 250 native grapes which contribute to a wide diversity of wines. The country’s various climates and different soils contribute to the variety of Portuguese wines. With centuries of winemaking tradition, Portugal produces wines that truly reflect their terroir—unique, full of character, and exciting. Portuguese winemakers have mastered the art of blending various native grapes to create such exquisite wines.
AS: Is there anything extra special or unusual?
CM: There is a grape called Jampal, which was nearly extinct until André Manz, a former Brazilian footballer, bought a nearly derelict vineyard in Portugal. He noticed a few vines producing white grapes, that ripened later in the harvest season. The yields were low, and the vines looked different from the Castelão vines present in the vineyard.
Mr. Manz reached out to two winemakers that he knew, but they were unable to identify the clusters of white grapes that growing there. After conducting some research and testing, they discovered it was an abandoned and almost extinct Portuguese variety called “Jampal”. Mr. Manz was told that no one else cultivated the grape due to its low yields and lack of profitability. They even advised him to pull out those vines.
AS: So, there’s a vine DNA test!?
CM: Yes – the IVV (“Instituto da Vinha e do Vinho”) can test vine samples to determine the variety, which is important in Portugal due to the large number of indigenous and often similar-looking varieties.
AS: Wow, that’s incredible.
CM: It’s amazing! We are so excited to have in our portfolio Dona Fatima white wine – made from 100% Jampal. Produced by Manz Wine, which is believed to be the only wine in the world made entirely from Jampal. Its elegance, minerality, crispiness which comes from the natural acidity provided by the sea fossils in the soil and the closeness to the North Atlantic will truly amaze everyone.
Traditionally, Jampal was blended with other native grapes, but that’s the beauty about Portugal – if people are excited by wines, there’s lots of very different wines they may not have tasted or even heard about them.
AS: How are people finding out about Portugal’s wines if not from yourself?
CM: Portugal is increasingly popular for tourists, weddings and golf too. Visitors are discovering and experiencing exceptional wines that they cannot find in the UK. After their trip, many of them search for similar wines when they return home.
AS: Before we move too far from sustainability as a theme, I’m really interested in the perception of premium wines in cans. Is this something you’ve experienced in Portuguese wine yet? Is the market still very traditional, ie; glass bottles?
CM: This is really interesting. Last year, we were invited by The Wines of Portugal, as importers of Portuguese wines, to visit Setúbal (just an hour south of Lisbon). to discover the region’s wines and although there were no tinned wines but they had what we call ‘Bag-in-Box (BiB)’. This type of packaging has gained popularity in Scandinavian countries because it is more environmentally friendly as it has significantly lower carbon footprint than glass. Additionally, BiB uses less material and generates less waste.
AS: As an importer to the UK, do you think this will work?
CM: I think it is going to take time – perhaps another generation for attitudes to change. Talking with all the other importers we know, the consensus was that the UK market still prefers wine in glass bottles and UK sales support this too. There is a prevailing perception that wine in a box is cheap and low quality. However, in the samples we tried in Setúbal, it was exactly the same wine as what was going into the bottles. To alter these perceptions and consumer habits, we will need to rethink our approach to BiB wines.
AS: And how were these selling?
CM: One producer was telling me that he sells a lot of BiB wine to Germany, Scandinavia and The Netherlands. He noted that consumers in these regions tend to be more environmental friendly and don’t have these preconceived ideas that wine must always be sold in bottles. It may be is changing in the UK slowly as I am seeing an increase of BiB wines in supermarkets and wine shops, but where I live, not so much canned wine.
AS: So you’ve not come across any canned Portuguese wine at all?
CM: In our online shop we do sell canned products, specifically Xetubre Sangria from Portugal, available in red, white and rosé varieties. These are lovely and very popular among our customers. (Note: Sangria isn’t unique to Spain!) Apart from these, I have not come across any other tinned wine yet.
AS: There are some negative connotations with tinned wine, but I also see some great benefits. For me, a mid-week glass of wine can be exactly that – one glass, not one bottle. Also, in my ‘experimentation’, I drank less of a far better-quality product, rather than finishing off a bottle of something cheap from the local supermarket.
CM: I completely get that and it’s an interesting way to look at it from a different angle. Drinking in moderation and choosing higher quality options are always important considerations. Vinify.uk is affiliated with Wine in Moderation, as we promote responsible drinking.
Excise Duties
AS: How are the new excise duties affecting the wine market?
CM: There is a growing interest in lower alcohol-by-volume (ABV) wines now. We began importing Alentejo wines which are fabulous full-bodied red wines with an alcohol content of 14% ABV. However, these wines now cost us more to buy compared to those with 11% ABV, lower ABV now means lower excise duty, which in turn means lower prices for consumers.
In our range, we offer several lower-ABV options, particularly among our white wines, rosés, and even our prosecco.
AS: It’s going to be a trend across the whole drinks market with many breweries already offering a return to lower ABVs.
CM: The knock-on effect will always hit the consumer, and I’m finding that in retail people aren’t spending as much as they once were. As importers, it will probably make sense that we buy wine with a lower ABV allowing us to sell more competitively.
Brand and consumer connection
For me, the branding holds an important role – whether that is creating a visual point of different or standout on a stacked shelf, or for table presence when someone hosts a dinner party for example. But of course, the product needs to live up to expectations..!
AS: How much of an influence do you find a label has on the purchasing decision of consumers, or are people able to look beyond the label more?
CM: I think both factors are important. When it comes to the Portuguese wines we sell at retail, people might choose a bottle because they recognise the label from their trips abroad or, if it is a present for example, simply because they like the label – it might be eye-catching or elegant.
However, I often receive enquiries from people asking which wine they should buy, or people may want recommendations for a specific style or food pairing. In those cases, customers are showing a deeper level of interest and at this point, the information about the wine becomes more important than the label.
AS: There are a certain amount of design standards which immediately identify a French wine from a German wine, for example. However, there are people like to mix things up and push the envelope. When I spoke with Philip at Unison Vineyard in New Zealand, he said he was influenced by UK craft beer designs. What are you seeing in Portugal?
CM: The Portuguese are quite traditional when it comes to the presentation of their wine labels. I agree that while some brands may want to stand out or appeal to different demographics, the vineyards I work with tend to favour a more elegant approach. This aligns with our earlier conversation about making a good impression.
An example which comes to mind is from Dão, Portugal – the Vinha Maria red wine which features a clean white label with an elegant design. At events and exhibitions, people have approached me specifically to compliment the wine’s appearance based solely on its label.
AS: I think there’s a line which brands need to tread carefully around, from a creative perspective. A overtly modern design for a traditional wine and winery may raise more questions that it does positive interest.
CM: I see what you mean – there is, generally speaking, a strong association between tradition and wine. Portugal has been producing wine for centuries, and although they are less known than Spanish wines for example (with the exception being Mateus Rosé, which became popular in the 1980s), they are still steeped in tradition and rich heritage with very old vineyards and wineries. This traditional approach is reflected in their labelling practises.
Portugal is at the intersection of tradition and reinvention as many established producers still favour classic and minimalistic labels. In contrast, younger winemakers, cooperatives, and boutique wines are opting for bright, colourful labels designed to stand out on the shelves.
Current wine market
AS: There seems to be endless options for wine for the consumer now – Old World, New World, Lebanon, Georgia, Volcanic wines and so on. But does this translate a better quality of product, or just more choice?
CM: If you think about how people shop, there will always be the entry-level options at supermarkets. However, some supermarkets also sell high-quality wine. It is important to note that cheap doesn’t always mean bad quality wine and likewise, expensive doesn’t necessarily guarantee a good wine!
In terms of options, yes there are indeed many more options available now. For example, places like Mexico produce wine mainly in the northern region, providing consumers with an even wider selection. However, the most significant change in the wine industry, in my opinion, is not the increase in options, but rather that people are choosing to drink less alcohol.
AS: What do you think has influenced this?
CM: One factor influencing this trend was Covid-19. After the pandemic, many people decided to change their habits (AS note; I’m assuming consumption went up during lockdown..?!), particularly Millennials and Gen Z who are increasingly focused on healthier lifestyles. Alcohol is therefore something that they are consuming less of. This shift in preference has led to an increase in the availability of low and zero-alcohol options.
AS: …and they are vastly improving in quality, aren’t they?
CM: I personally think it’s a bit of a mix. From my experience, I’m still to find a zero-alcohol red wine that I like. I have tried wines from Portugal, South Africa, Spain and other regions, but I still think there is ‘something’ missing in the flavour profile. However, many people seem to enjoy these wines, which is why we have them in our portfolio.
Health considerations are playing a significant role in influencing the market, as we have already spoken about, people are becoming more environmentally conscious, making sustainability an increasingly important factor when choosing wines.
AS: Speaking of health, do the organic wines align better with some people’s bodies?
CM: Many people tell me that they choose to drink natural wine and biodynamic wine because they experience fewer headaches when drinking them. Additionally, I believe that people’s relationship with alcohol is changing, and overall, people are drinking less alcohol.
AS: ABV and health aside, what other wine trends have you seen over the past 12 months or so?
CM: In my experience in the UK, I have noticed that more people are drinking white wine throughout the year. Typically, one would expect a preference for red wines during winter and more white wines during summer. However, white wines are proving to be an all-year drink.
AS: With you been based in the south of England, you must see a lot of English wine now?
CM: I am very impressed with the quality of English wines, although they can be quite pricey! The improvement in quality can be attributed to environmental changes that have made this possible. Twenty years ago, who would have thought that England would produce wines of such high quality – winning prizes and gaining widespread recognition?
There are plenty of vineyards near my home, and they are truly excellent. The wine production is expanding, further north, not just in England but places like Poland, Switzerland and even Sweden because of global warming. While discussions about climate change often focus on the negative effects, the rise of English wine has been a positive outcome.
AS: Any closing statements you’d like to make?
CM: Try Portuguese wines! They are made from native grapes, have character and terroir, are exciting, and really good!
AS: My final question. What are you drinking tonight, or what would you recommend I try?
CM: I’m a red wine lover, so I would recommend Vale de Calada from Herdade de Calada . It’s a lovely full-bodied wine from Alentejo. Another great option, is Vinha Maria from Quinta de Cabriz in Dão – again, a lovely full-bodied wine which pairs really well with red meat and Mediterranean platters, although it has a slightly lower ABV than Vale da Calada. Additionally, I can highly recommend Dona Fátima white wine made from 100% Jampal grapes by Manz Wines..
AS: Thank you so much.
Claudia Martans is a qualified Attorney at Law with a particular interest in International Environmental Law. She was admitted to the bar of the Republic of Panama in 1995.
Claudia read Law and Political Science at Santa Maria La Antigua University, holds an LLM in Environmental Law from the University of Nottingham, and has done a conversion course and obtained a Graduate Diploma in Law (GDL) from BPP University, Law School. She also have a Master’s degree from the University of Antonio Machado (Spain) in Management and Conservation of Endangered Species (CITES).
And…Claudia also set up Vinify.UK